$$$$ • Regional americana (Sudoeste) • Centro
South Texas Ice House, "Texas Cuisine" Products from the Texas Gulf to the Texas Hill Country."The huge snake logo on the outside of an otherwise nondescript building -- created by Bob "Daddy-O" Wade, best known for the oversize boots that front San Antonio's North Star Mall -- is your first hint that this place might be a bit, well, different. Inside, cowboy kitsch, 1950s diner decor, and Mexican folk art mingle, as do workers from the nearby county offices, local movers and shakers, and anyone else looking for terrific food that, like the decor, defies easy categorization.Call it South Texas gourmet. You can really taste the chipotle chilies in the tartar sauce that comes with some of the best crispy oysters this side of the Mason-Dixon Line, and the Gulf fish tacos are gussied up with chili lime aioli and Tabasco jalapeño onions. You get the idea -- lots of spicy dishes."
